Korea in 7 days: Seoul, Jeju

Day 1 · Seoul: Palaces and hanok alleys

Start at Gyeongbokgung Palace (closed Tuesdays; the guard ceremony is at 10:00 and 14:00), then walk up through the hanok houses of Bukchon. Lunch and tea in Insadong, and an evening in the small lanes of Ikseon-dong.

• Gyeongbokgung & Gwanghwamun경복궁 광화문Wide royal courtyards backed by Bugaksan mountain, with Gwanghwamun Square and broad…
• Bukchon & Samcheong-dong북촌 삼청동Sloping lanes of tile-roofed hanok houses with the city skyline behind them, and quiet…
• Insadong인사동One long street of traditional teahouses, calligraphy shops and craft stores, with an…
• Ikseon-dong익선동Narrow alleys of low hanok houses turned into cafes, small restaurants and shops, tucked…

Where to stay: Stay around Myeongdong or Jongno for the palaces, or Hongdae for nightlife; both have direct trains from Incheon Airport.

Day 2 · Seoul: Secret Garden, markets and Namsan

Changdeokgung Palace and its Secret Garden in the morning (closed Mondays; book the garden tour). Lunch at Gwangjang Market (mung bean pancakes), street food in Myeongdong, and N Seoul Tower for the sunset.

• Changdeokgung & Changgyeonggung창덕궁 창경궁Two quiet palaces with wooded grounds, ponds and pavilions, set in the east of old Seoul.
• Gwangjang Market & Jongno 5-ga광장시장 종로5가A covered market over a century old, packed with food stalls, fabric shops and wholesale…
• Myeongdong명동Crowded shopping streets packed with cosmetics stores, fashion shops and street food…
• Namsan & N Seoul Tower남산 N서울타워A forested hill in the middle of the city, topped by a tower with views across Seoul in…

Day 3 · Seoul: Hongdae, Yeonnam and the Han River

Cafés and vintage shops in Yeonnam-dong along the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, lunch at Mangwon Market, then the river: a picnic and convenience-store ramyeon at a Han River park. Back to Hongdae for street performers at night.

• Yeonnam-dong연남동A relaxed residential area of small cafes and restaurants along a tree-lined former…
• Mangwon & Hapjeong망원 합정A neighbourhood of local markets, small cafes and indie shops, with a riverside park a…
• Yeouido여의도A flat river island of office towers, a long riverside park and broad plazas, with cherry…
• Hongdae홍대Seoul's student and indie-music district, with street performers, clubs, vintage shops…

Day 4 · Seoul: Seongsu, Gangnam and the Lotte World Tower

Seongsu-dong's warehouse cafés and pop-up stores, a walk in Seoul Forest, the Starfield Library at COEX, and the view from the Lotte World Tower at dusk.

• Seongsu성수동Old brick factories and shoe workshops turned into cafes, galleries and design stores,…
• Seoul Forest서울숲A large green park beside the Han River with open lawns, ponds and tree-lined paths, good…
• Samseong & COEX (with Bongeunsa)삼성동 코엑스 봉은사A big underground mall and aquarium across the road from a working Buddhist temple, among…
• Jamsil (Lotte World & Seokchon Lake)잠실 롯데월드 석촌호수A lakeside area with a theme park and Korea's tallest tower, good for evening strolls and…

Day 5 · Jeju: East Jeju: Seongsan and Udo

Travel day: Seoul to Jeju. Trains, buses and flights

Sunrise or morning climb up Seongsan Ilchulbong, the ferry to Udo island (rent an e-bike there), and beach cafés at Woljeong-ri.

• Seongsan Ilchulbong & Gwangchigi Beach성산일출봉 광치기해변A huge volcanic crater rising straight out of the sea at Jeju's eastern tip, with a flat…
• Udo Island우도A small island of stone walls, fields and pale beaches just off Jeju, best explored…
• Woljeongri & Gimnyeong Beach월정리 김녕해수욕장A north-east coast of clear water and white sand, with small cafés facing the sea and…

Where to stay: Rent a car if you can: buses are slow outside the towns. Split your stay between Jeju City and Seogwipo, or stay in one and drive.

Day 6 · Jeju: South Jeju: waterfalls and Jungmun

Cheonjiyeon Falls in Seogwipo, the hexagonal lava columns and beaches of Jungmun, and Seogwipo Olle Market for dinner.

• Seogwipo Downtown, Olle Market & Cheonjiyeon서귀포 매일올레시장 천지연폭포A relaxed southern harbour town where a covered market, a waterfall and a pedestrian…
• Cheonjiyeon Falls천지연폭포Cheonjiyeon Falls is a waterfall in Seogwipo that drops past towering volcanic rock…
• Jungmun Resort Area & Jusangjeolli중문관광단지 주상절리Jeju's main resort district on the south coast, with big hotels, a surf beach and…

Day 7 · Jeju: West Jeju and Jeju City (or Hallasan)

The Aewol coast road and its cafés, the green water of Hyeopjae Beach near Hallim, and Dongmun Market's night stalls in Jeju City. Fit hikers can climb Hallasan instead (a full day; book the trail online).

• Aewol Coast Cafés & Handam Trail애월 한담해안산책로A stretch of black lava coast where cafés with big sea windows face the water and a short…
• Hallim, Hyeopjae & Geumneung Beaches한림 협재 금능 해수욕장Pale sand and shallow turquoise water on Jeju's west coast, with a small island sitting…
• Dongmun Traditional Market동문시장Dongmun Market is one of Jeju's oldest traditional markets, in the center of Jeju City.…
• Hallasan National Park한라산국립공원South Korea's highest mountain, an extinct volcano rising 1,947 m from the middle of…